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Rise of homemade sourdough during lockdown sparks health debate
When COVID-19 lockdowns began in 2020, thousands turned to baking sourdough bread at home. For many, including BBC journalist Melissa Hogenboom, the shift was driven by taste and growing concerns over ultra-processed foods (UPFs). Five years later, her sourdough starter remains active, offering a stark contrast to mass-produced supermarket loaves.
The Chorleywood method: A revolution with unintended consequences
In the late 1950s, UK scientists at the Chorleywood factory developed a rapid bread-making technique. By adding hard fats, extra yeast, enzymes, oxidants, and emulsifiers, they sped up production and extended shelf life. The method, designed to help small bakers compete, instead fueled industrialization, pushing many local bakeries out of business.
Today, about 80% of bread consumed in the UK is made using this process, which relies on low-protein wheat and chemical additives. While efficient, the method has drawn criticism for its reliance on ultra-processed ingredients.
Sourdough vs. mass-produced bread: The health divide
Sourdough's slow fermentation process-often taking up to 36 hours-enhances its nutritional profile. The natural bacteria and yeast in the starter break down proteins and carbohydrates, making the bread easier to digest and increasing the availability of vitamins and minerals. Studies suggest sourdough may also help regulate blood sugar levels and promote satiety.
In contrast, most supermarket bread is classified as ultra-processed. Additives like potassium bromate, used in some countries to improve dough rise, have been flagged as potential carcinogens. In the UK, 54% of calories consumed come from UPFs, with similar trends in the US.
"If a food contains five or more ingredients, including ones you wouldn't stock in your kitchen, it's likely ultra-processed," academics advise.
Wholegrain vs. white: The nutritional gap
Wholegrain bread retains the wheat germ, bran, and endosperm, offering higher fiber, protein, and essential nutrients like vitamin E and magnesium. Research links wholegrain consumption to reduced risks of heart disease, improved gut health, and lower cancer risk. White bread, stripped of the germ and bran, lacks these benefits and can cause blood sugar spikes.
Despite its advantages, wholegrain bread remains less popular than white bread in the UK. Some "seeded" loaves marketed as healthy may still use refined flour, misleading consumers. Alternatives like brown rice, oats, and popcorn can help bridge the gap for those reluctant to switch.
Innovations in bread: Can white bread be made healthier?
Researchers at Aberystwyth University are developing a wholemeal bread that mimics the taste and texture of white bread. By incorporating peas, beans, cereals like teff and sorghum, and seeds such as quinoa, they aim to boost fiber, iron, zinc, and vitamin levels. Early prototypes have been well-received, but the product may take two more years to reach shelves.
"It's a delicate balancing act to match the nutritional value of wholemeal bread while achieving the taste of white," said Catherine Howarth, a lead researcher on the project.
BBC News
Making informed choices at the supermarket
With supermarket aisles overflowing with options, consumers face a dilemma: convenience and cost versus health. While artisan sourdough and minimally processed bread may be out of reach for many, experts recommend checking ingredient lists for unfamiliar additives and opting for wholegrain when possible.
Some sliced sourdough loaves in supermarkets contain minimal ingredients, setting them apart from ultra-processed alternatives. Freezing bread can also extend its shelf life without preservatives. For those willing to bake, resources like the BBC's sourdough recipes offer a starting point.
Ultimately, the choice depends on personal preference, budget, and priorities. As Hogenboom notes, even small steps-like scrutinizing labels-can lead to healthier decisions.
