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Raub: From gold rush to durian capital
The Malaysian town of Raub, once known for its 19th-century gold mines, has reinvented itself as the heart of the Musang King durian trade. Trucks laden with the spiky fruit now dominate its mountain roads, while murals and road signs declare it the "home of Musang King."
China's $7bn durian appetite reshapes Southeast Asia
In 2024, China imported a record $7 billion worth of durians-triple the 2020 figure-with over 90% of global exports now heading to Chinese markets. "Even if just 2% of Chinese consumers buy durians, that's more than enough demand," says Chee Seng Wong, manager of Raub-based exporter Fresco Green.
Thailand and Vietnam supply nearly all of China's durian imports, but Malaysia's premium Musang King variety is rapidly gaining ground. Prices for the buttery, bittersweet fruit range from $14 to $100 per fruit, depending on quality and season.
The polarizing 'King of fruits'
Durian's pungent aroma-described by some as resembling cabbage, sulfur, or sewage-has led to bans on public transport and in hotels. Yet its divisive reputation hasn't deterred China's affluent consumers, who treat it as a status symbol, gifting it or showcasing it on social media.
"When I first tried Malaysian durian, I thought, 'This is delicious. I have to bring it to China,'" says Xu Xin, a 33-year-old durian importer from northeastern China. She notes a growing preference for complex flavors: "Now customers ask, 'Are there any bitter ones in this batch?'"
From farm to luxury export
Raub's durian boom has created millionaires, like farmer Lu Yuee Thing, known locally as "Uncle Thing." His family business spans farms and a sorting facility, where durians are graded from C (small and misshapen) to AA (the most prized). The top-tier fruits are flown to China within hours of harvest.
Farming remains grueling work. At 72, Uncle Thing rises at dawn to collect durians, some of which fall 30 feet from trees. A past injury from a falling fruit still causes him pain. "It looks like easy money," he says, "but it's not."
Diplomacy, disputes, and durian wars
China's durian demand has become a diplomatic tool, with Beijing signing trade deals across Southeast Asia. The China-Laos Railway now transports 2,000 tonnes of fruit daily, mostly Thai durians.
But the rush has sparked tensions. In Raub, authorities felled thousands of "illegally planted" durian trees on state land, angering farmers who claim decades of unchallenged use. Meanwhile, Vietnam's shift from coffee to durians has driven up global coffee prices.
China's durian independence dream
Hainan, China's tropical island province, harvested 2,000 tonnes of durians in 2025 as part of a push for self-sufficiency. State media hailed the move toward "durian freedom," but Hainan's output remains less than 1% of China's consumption.
Uncle Thing acknowledges the threat: "If Hainan succeeds, our market will shrink." For now, Raub's farmers remain confident. "They'll never match Malaysian durians," one scoffs. Yet as China's durian ambitions grow, the Musang King's throne looks increasingly precarious.
