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Campaign to preserve historic London eatery gains royal attention
Supporters of Veeraswamy, Britain's oldest surviving Indian restaurant, will deliver a petition to Buckingham Palace in the coming weeks, urging King Charles III to intervene in its lease dispute with the Crown Estate. The 98-year-old establishment, located on Regent Street, faces eviction as its landlord plans to refurbish the building.
Cultural landmark at risk
The Crown Estate, which manages property on behalf of the Treasury, has declined to renew Veeraswamy's lease, citing the need for modernization. A spokesperson stated the decision was not made lightly but emphasized the building's required upgrades are incompatible with the restaurant's continued operation.
Founded in 1926, Veeraswamy has served patrons through the Blitz and hosted luminaries like Mahatma Gandhi, Winston Churchill, and Charlie Chaplin. Its Michelin star, awarded in 2016, underscores its culinary significance. The restaurant is credited with introducing the UK's first tandoor oven and popularizing the pairing of curry and beer.
Public and celebrity backing
A petition exceeding 18,000 signatures demands the restaurant's preservation as a "living piece of shared cultural history." High-profile chefs, including Raymond Blanc and Richard Corrigan, have voiced support. Corrigan questioned, "Most European cities cherish their legendary restaurants. Why would we want to lose Veeraswamy?"
Lucy Haine of the Soho Society called its potential closure a "major loss to London's history and culinary heritage," advocating for its recognition as an "asset of community value."
Dispute over modernization
The Crown Estate plans to convert Veeraswamy's space into offices, altering the entrance to render the restaurant inaccessible. While offering financial compensation and assistance in finding alternative West End premises, the landlord insists no viable alternative proposals have emerged to meet its fiscal responsibilities.
"We need to carry out a comprehensive refurbishment of Victory House to bring it up to modern standards,"
Crown Estate spokesperson
Co-owner Ranjit Mathrani argues the restaurant's location provides "a sense of place and continuity," calling its displacement "culturally insensitive." Legal action is expected this summer if no resolution is reached.
Historical significance
Veeraswamy's legacy traces back to its role as a pioneer for Indian cuisine in Britain. Early patrons included Anglo-Indians and expatriates, with menus from 1947 featuring dishes like Madras chicken curry and rabbit curry. By the 1950s, it introduced chicken tandoori and poppadums, shaping the UK's culinary landscape.
The restaurant has catered for royal events, including state visits in 2008 and 2017. Mathrani hopes King Charles might intervene discreetly, though Buckingham Palace has deferred to the Crown Estate's authority.
Broader context
Veeraswamy's plight mirrors the 2023 closure of the India Club, another historic Indian dining venue lost to redevelopment. Supporters remain hopeful for a compromise, with a centenary dinner in March poised to rally further advocacy.
