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Machu Picchu bus dispute strands 1,400 tourists
A bitter conflict over bus services to Peru's iconic Machu Picchu has escalated, leaving around 1,400 visitors stranded and forcing evacuations after protesters blocked railway access to the UNESCO World Heritage site.
The dispute centers on a contested licensing decision that threatens to replace Consettur, the longstanding bus operator, with a rival firm-San Antonio de Torontoy-amid accusations of an opaque bidding process and monopolistic control.
How the crisis unfolded
Since September, tensions have flared between local communities, bus companies, and authorities. Protesters, angered by what they call a closed bidding process, barricaded the railway to Aguas Calientes-the gateway town to Machu Picchu-with rocks, halting train services. Peruvian officials intervened to clear the tracks and evacuate stranded tourists via special trains.
Consettur, which has ferried up to 4,500 daily visitors along the 20-minute route for three decades, saw its license expire in September. Yet legal challenges have delayed San Antonio de Torontoy's takeover, leaving both firms in limbo. The standoff has exposed deeper frustrations over tourism revenue distribution and local infrastructure gaps.
'Not a monopoly': Consettur defends its 30-year run
Cristian Alberto Caballero Chacón, Consettur's head of operations, dismisses monopoly claims, insisting the company is a collective of 12 local firms, including the Aguas Calientes district council, which holds a 38% stake. "The owners are from this region," he told reporters. "This isn't a monopoly-it's a partnership."
Locals, speaking anonymously, counter that Consettur's dominance-with round-trip bus fares at $24 for foreigners and $15 for Peruvians-simply shifted to San Antonio de Torontoy without addressing competition concerns. The rival firm is based in Urubamba Province, fueling accusations of outsider control over a lucrative local resource.
Tourists face steep costs and logistical chaos
Annalise Jaksic, an Australian visitor, criticized the $140-$2,000 round-trip train fares to Aguas Calientes as "exorbitant," expecting an all-inclusive ticket. "We thought the train went straight to Machu Picchu," she said. "Then we had to pay extra for buses-it's misleading."
Her companion, Todd Carland, called buying the $57 site-entry tickets "a nightmare" without a guided tour. The complaints echo broader grievances: Elvis La Torre, Aguas Calientes' mayor, revealed that only 10% of ticket revenues stay locally, with the rest funneled to Peru's Ministry of Culture for nationwide archaeological upkeep.
"We lack basic services-running water, hospitals, decent schools. Tourism profits should help us first," said Dina Huillca, a street vendor selling roses and produce near souvenir stalls.
Calls for reform amid political instability
Carlos González, president of Cusco's tourism chamber, urged national oversight of transport and site management. "Peru needs a unified tourism strategy," he said, proposing segregated areas for spiritual retreats and social-media-focused visitors. "But with six presidents in six years, consistency is impossible."
González also criticized the lack of state coordination: "I've lost count of how many ministers I've briefed. Every new government resets the conversation."
What's next?
Caballero signaled openness to sharing the route with San Antonio de Torontoy if approved: "We won't block them." Yet with legal battles ongoing and protests simmering, the dispute risks further disruptions to Machu Picchu's 1.5 million annual visitors-80% of whom are foreign tourists-and the local economy dependent on them.
Peru's Ministry of Culture has not responded to requests for comment on revenue distribution or the licensing dispute.
