Ask Onix
From niche to mainstream: The rise of K-beauty
A sticky substance once dismissed as unusual-snail mucin-has become a cornerstone of skincare routines worldwide. The ingredient's surge in popularity, driven by a viral TikTok challenge, propelled its manufacturer, South Korea's CosRX, from a small label to a global brand under the umbrella of Amorepacific, the country's largest cosmetics conglomerate.
The viral engine behind K-beauty's success
The rapid adoption of products like snail mucin serum underscores the explosive growth of K-beauty, an industry now valued at $13 billion in South Korea alone as of 2024. Fueled by social media trends and relentless innovation, the sector has expanded at double-digit rates, with exports hitting a record $5.5 billion in the first half of 2025. That momentum catapulted South Korea past France, making it the world's second-largest exporter of beauty products after the United States.
Platforms like TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube have become the primary drivers of this expansion. Influencers with millions of followers dissect ingredient lists, showcase unboxings, and film "Get Ready With Me" videos centered on K-beauty staples like "glass skin" routines, sheet masks, and, inevitably, snail mucin. The saturation of content has created a fiercely competitive market, where brands must constantly innovate to stand out.
"There are so many products and brands, and consumers are exposed to millions of them. It's highly saturated and competitive,"
Liah Yoo, beauty influencer and founder of Krave Beauty
Innovation at breakneck speed
K-beauty's hallmark is its rapid pace of innovation. New formulations emerge every few months, often designed to spark the next online obsession. What were once considered niche or unappealing-like 10-step skincare routines, overnight "water sleeping masks," or ingredients such as salmon sperm-are now staples in bathrooms from London to Los Angeles.
The industry's agility is underpinned by a sophisticated manufacturing ecosystem. Original development manufacturers (ODMs) handle research, formulation, and production for thousands of brands, allowing products to move from concept to market in as little as six months-a process that can take Western brands up to three years. Automation plays a key role in keeping costs down, as seen in Amorepacific's fully automated factories outside Seoul, where a handful of workers oversee production lines for products like Laneige's Water Sleeping Mask.
Challenges amid growth
Despite its success, the industry faces mounting pressures. Intense competition has led to thin profit margins and a high rate of business failures, with over 8,800 cosmetics brands shutting down in recent years. Experts warn that the relentless focus on beauty ideals, particularly on social media, can fuel anxiety and excessive spending among young consumers.
"We are fully aware that excessive use or misuse of social media can lead to backlash. Brands must strike a careful balance in how they use online platforms,"
Kim Seung-hwan, CEO of Amorepacific
As the industry evolves, transparency and ingredient efficacy are becoming increasingly important. Consumers are shifting their focus from celebrity endorsements to the sourcing and benefits of ingredients, a trend that aligns with K-beauty's emphasis on natural, side-effect-free formulations.
Global shifts and future outlook
The K-beauty market is also adapting to changing dynamics. China, once the largest overseas buyer, has seen its dominance eroded by domestic brands. For the first time in 80 years, Amorepacific's North America business surpassed its China operations in 2024, with growth also expected in Japan, Europe, India, and the Middle East. The U.S. remains the top importer of South Korean beauty products, though tariffs imposed by former President Donald Trump have introduced some uncertainty.
South Korea's government has thrown its weight behind the industry, designating K-beauty a strategic national asset in December and pledging support for manufacturing and exports. The move reflects the sector's transformation from a viral trend into a major economic force, one that shows no signs of slowing down.
