Ask Onix
Tourist charm fades as Jaipur grapples with neglect
A taxi driver in Jaipur recently summed up the city's paradox: "Want the royal charm? Don't come-just buy a postcard." Once celebrated for its palaces and forts, Rajasthan's capital now battles urban decay-traffic gridlock, polluted air, and uncollected waste-despite its global appeal.
Centuries-old architecture, stained by tobacco and overshadowed by makeshift workshops, tells a broader story. Across India, cities are struggling to reconcile rapid growth with livability, even as billions flow into national infrastructure projects.
Growth without transformation
Under Prime Minister Narendra Modi, India has prioritized state-funded upgrades: gleaming airports, highways, and metro networks. Yet, cities like Bengaluru, Mumbai, and Delhi rank among the world's least livable. Public frustration boiled over this year, from Bengaluru's tech elite protesting garbage piles to Mumbai's rare demonstrations over potholes and sewage floods.
Delhi's annual smog crisis reached new lows this winter, with doctors urging vulnerable residents to leave. Even Lionel Messi's visit this month was overshadowed by fans chanting against the city's toxic air.
Governance gap: The missing link
"The root cause is historical-our cities lack credible governance," says Vinayak Chatterjee, an infrastructure expert. India's constitution decentralized power to states and the center but never anticipated the scale of urbanization. Today, over 500 million Indians-nearly 40% of the population-live in cities, up from 70 million in 1960.
The 1992 constitutional amendment aimed to empower local bodies, but implementation stalled. "Vested interests block devolution," Chatterjee notes. Unlike China, where mayors wield executive power over planning and investments, Indian cities operate under weak local governments.
"Mayors and councils are the weakest organs of the state-closest to citizens but starved of revenue and authority."
Ankur Bisen, author of Wasted
China's model vs. India's inertia
China's centralized planning grants mayors autonomy and accountability, with performance tied to promotions. In India, state chief ministers often act as "super mayors," sidelining local leaders. "How many Indian mayors can you name?" Chatterjee asks.
Exceptions like Surat and Indore prove change is possible-but rely on individual initiative, not systemic reform. "These are flashes of brilliance, not sustainable solutions," says Bisen.
Data vacuum deepens the crisis
India's last census, over 15 years ago, recorded 30% urbanization. Unofficial estimates now suggest nearly half the country has urbanized, but the next census is delayed until 2026. "How can you solve a problem without data?" Bisen asks.
Experts warn the governance failures reflect a broader erosion of grassroots democracy. "There's no outcry like the anti-corruption movement," Chatterjee laments. Bisen compares India's trajectory to London's 1858 "Great Stink," which spurred sewer reforms: "Crises force political action."
Can India break the cycle?
For now, the disconnect between infrastructure spending and urban livability persists. Without empowered local governance, data-driven policies, and public pressure, India's cities may continue to decay-even as their skylines rise.
