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Naan: The unsung hero of South Asian cuisine
A soft, leavened flatbread, naan has become a global favorite, often paired with rich dishes like butter chicken. While the tangy gravy may steal the spotlight, the bread's chewy texture and subtle flavor elevate every bite, making it a versatile companion to countless dishes.
A royal beginning
The origins of naan are shrouded in history, but many food historians trace its roots to ancient Persia, where it was made from flour and water and baked on hot pebbles. The word itself derives from the Persian term for bread.
The flatbread traveled to the Indian subcontinent with the Sultans who ruled between the 13th and 16th centuries. These Muslim rulers introduced culinary traditions from Western and Central Asia, including the use of the tandoor, a clay oven that became central to naan preparation.
Indo-Persian poet Amir Khusrau documented courtly life during the reigns of Alauddin Khalji and Muhammad Bin Tughlaq, mentioning two types of naan in his writings: naan-e-tanuk, a delicate and thin variety, and naan-i-tanuri, a thick, puffy bread baked in the tandoor. During the Delhi Sultanate, naan was typically served with meat dishes like kebabs and keema.
From luxury to everyday staple
In royal kitchens, naan-making evolved into an art form. Cooks experimented with kneading techniques and incorporated yeast-a rare ingredient at the time-to create softer, fluffier bread. The complexity of its preparation made naan a luxury item, enjoyed primarily by nobility.
Neha Vermani, a South Asian historian, explains how specialized cooks, known as naan bais, innovated with the flatbread. For instance, naan-e-warqi featured thin, flaky layers, while naan-e-tangi was a smaller bread designed to absorb gravies. Some naans were even named after the kitchens where they were crafted, such as Baqir Khani, a biscuit-like flatbread from the kitchen of Baqir Najm Saini, a high-ranking officer in the courts of Jahangir and Shah Jahan.
During British rule, naan remained a delicacy for the elite but also began its journey westward through English travelers. In India, it found its way into colonial cuisine, often paired with cured meats or locally spiced sauces. Over time, simpler preparation methods made naan accessible to the masses, leading to the versions commonly seen in restaurants today.
The modern naan: A canvas for creativity
Traditional naan is made by combining flour, yogurt, and yeast into a soft dough, which is left to rise before being shaped into balls and patted by hand. The bread is then baked in a scorching tandoor until it puffs up and develops brown spots, finishing with a brush of butter or ghee.
In the 1990s and 2000s, naan underwent a wave of innovation as fine-dining restaurants in India and abroad began experimenting with the flatbread. Chef Suvir Saran recalls how his New York restaurant introduced naan infused with spinach, gouda, and mushrooms to appeal to both international and Indian diners.
"It was a way to jazz up the naan to make it more appealing for non-Indians, while Indians could feel less guilty about eating their traditional food abroad."
Chef Suvir Saran
The trend caught on quickly, and today, restaurants worldwide serve naan stuffed or topped with a variety of ingredients. From a pork vindaloo naan in Goa to a truffle cheese naan in Hong Kong, the flatbread has become a global canvas for culinary creativity.
A symbol of cultural harmony
While naan is celebrated as an Indian culinary gift, its ties extend across South Asia and the Middle East. For Chef Saran, the naan embodies a message of belonging and identity.
"The naan tells a story of plurality; of cross-cultural identities co-existing in harmony. It shows us that differences need not cancel out each other when they can be celebrated together."
Chef Suvir Saran
From its royal origins to its modern-day reinventions, naan's journey reflects a rich tapestry of history, culture, and innovation-one that continues to unfold on plates around the world.
