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Salmon sperm facials: The latest skincare trend dividing experts
In a quiet aesthetics clinic in south Manchester, 29-year-old Abby lies back as a practitioner inserts a cannula into her cheek, delivering tiny fragments of DNA extracted from trout or salmon sperm. The procedure-dubbed a "salmon sperm facial"-aims to stimulate collagen and elastin production, promising fresher, healthier skin and reduced acne scarring. But while celebrities like Charli XCX, Kim Kardashian, and Jennifer Aniston tout its benefits, dermatologists warn the hype may outpace the science.
The science-or lack thereof-behind fish DNA injections
Polynucleotides, the active ingredient in these treatments, are short chains of DNA derived from fish sperm. Proponents claim they trigger the skin's natural repair mechanisms due to their structural similarity to human DNA. Suzanne Mansfield of Dermafocus calls it a "Benjamin Button moment," suggesting the treatment could reverse signs of aging by enhancing the body's existing regenerative processes.
Yet skepticism remains. Dr. John Pagliaro, a Brisbane-based dermatologist, argues that while nucleotides are fundamental to human biology, injecting fragmented salmon DNA lacks robust evidence. "We don't have good, strong data," he says. "I'd need years of credible studies before considering this for patients."
Mixed results and high costs
Abby, undergoing her second round of treatments, reports noticeable improvements under her eyes-reduced dark circles despite the procedure's pain. But results vary. Helena Dunk, owner of Skin HD clinic, notes half her clients see dramatic hydration and tightness, while others experience subtler effects. A full course (three sessions) costs £600-£1,500, with top-ups recommended every six to nine months.
When treatments go wrong
Not all outcomes are positive. Charlotte Bickley, 31, sought polynucleotides for her "wedding glow-up" but ended up with infections, inflammation, and worsened under-eye pigmentation. "I got the complete opposite of what I wanted," she says. Ten months later, scarring persists, and she's spent thousands on corrective treatments. Her case highlights risks like improper injection depth, allergic reactions, or untested products flooding the market.
"I trusted that doctor, but he's left me scarred. I'd never have salmon DNA injected into my face again-ever."
Charlotte Bickley, patient
Regulation gaps and industry warnings
In the UK, polynucleotides are registered as medical devices but lack the stringent oversight applied to medicines. The U.S. FDA hasn't approved them. Ashton Collins of Save Face warns of untested products entering the market, while Dr. Sophie Shotter, president of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine, acknowledges their place in her "toolbox" but stresses they're "not a panacea." She advocates for individualized approaches, noting, "We all respond differently, and that's not always predictable."
The celebrity effect and consumer caution
Celebrity endorsements-from Charli XCX's "deep vitamins" analogy to Jennifer Aniston's quip about "beautiful salmon skin"-have fueled demand. Yet experts urge caution. Dr. Shotter emphasizes that while polynucleotides may offer a "natural look" for some, alternatives with stronger evidence exist. For now, the treatment remains a gamble: a high-cost, high-hype procedure with potential rewards-and documented risks.
