Ask Onix
Ancient grains gain popularity amid health claims
Grains like quinoa, spelt, and einkorn-once staples of ancient diets-are experiencing a resurgence as consumers seek nutrient-rich alternatives to modern wheat and corn. Marketed for their perceived health advantages, these so-called ancient grains remain largely unchanged by centuries of selective breeding. Yet researchers warn the science behind their benefits is far from definitive.
Whole grains vs. refined: What the evidence shows
Grains form a cornerstone of global diets, supplying carbohydrates, fiber, and protein. Health guidelines recommend that at least half of grain consumption come from whole grains-those retaining their bran, endosperm, and germ. These components provide vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants often lost during refining, which strips away nutrient-dense layers for taste and shelf stability.
Studies link whole grain diets to reduced risks of type 2 diabetes, lower blood pressure, and certain cancers. However, Julie Miller Jones, professor emerita of foods and nutrition at St. Catherine University, notes these findings are often confounded by lifestyle factors. Whole grain consumers typically follow broader healthy diets, complicating efforts to isolate the grains' direct effects.
Ancient vs. modern grains: Key differences
Modern grains like wheat and maize have undergone millennia of selective breeding to enhance yield, taste, and baking properties. Corn, for instance, evolved from the wild grass teosinte, while wheat traces its lineage to ancient varieties like emmer and spelt. In contrast, ancient grains such as quinoa, millet, and barley retain traits from their wild ancestors, with minimal human intervention.
Chris Seal, emeritus professor of food and human nutrition at Newcastle University, explains that ancient grains often produce lower yields and are less suited to industrial baking. Their taller stalks, for example, are prone to wind damage. However, their resilience in harsh climates-requiring fewer pesticides and less water-has renewed interest amid climate change concerns.
Gluten-free appeal and nutritional trade-offs
Many ancient grains, including quinoa and millet, naturally lack gluten, making them viable options for those with celiac disease or gluten sensitivities. Some research suggests quinoa may improve early markers of type 2 diabetes, though Seal cautions such studies are limited in scope. A 2020 review found little evidence that modern grains are nutritionally inferior, despite declines in certain minerals like iron and zinc since the 1960s.
"The excitement around ancient grains is justified for people who can't eat gluten, but beyond that, whether they're ancient or not is dancing on the head of a pin," says Miller Jones.
Julie Miller Jones, St. Catherine University
Processing matters more than antiquity
Experts emphasize that the health benefits of ancient grains may stem less from their inherent properties and more from how they're consumed. Ancient grains are often eaten whole, preserving fiber and micronutrients that refining removes. Seal notes that whole ancient grains typically offer higher fiber, vitamins, and minerals compared to refined modern grains.
Amy Bogaard, professor of European archaeology at Oxford, highlights the historical context: ancient diets balanced grains with diverse crops, a practice modern diets often neglect. "There's a huge range of crops we completely ignore now," she says, advocating for a varied grain intake to maximize nutritional benefits.
Climate resilience and future food security
Ancient grains' adaptability to drought and poor soil conditions has sparked interest among farmers facing climate challenges. In Turkey, small-scale farmers are reviving ancient wheat varieties to combat land degradation, while West African researchers explore drought-resistant fonio. These efforts aim to secure stable food supplies amid shifting environmental pressures.
Experts recommend balanced grain consumption
While ancient grains may not live up to all their health hype, they offer valuable diversity in diets. Miller Jones and Seal both advocate for consuming a mix of whole grains-ancient and modern-to access a broader spectrum of nutrients. "Variety is the best strategy," Miller Jones concludes, echoing the balanced approaches of ancient agricultural systems.
