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Tehran blanketed in snow as war disrupts Nowruz preparations

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Snowfall covers Tehran amid ongoing conflict

Overnight snowfall dusted Iran's capital on Tuesday, offering a fleeting contrast to days of darkened skies caused by air strikes targeting oil depots. Despite the rare white layer, residents described a city transformed by war, with quiet streets and disrupted routines.

Daily life under siege

For Sahar, a woman in her twenties, sheltering at home has become the norm. She passes time cooking, reading, and playing a life simulation game, where she designs virtual homes. "The stress of war has oddly boosted my creativity," she told BBC Persian. "I build prettier houses in the game now."

Her words took a darker turn when she learned a former classmate had been killed. "Her body hasn't been recovered," Sahar said. "Why must we endure this horror during the best years of our lives? I just want it to end before Nowruz."

Nowruz muted by war

With fewer than 10 days until Nowruz-the Persian New Year marking spring's arrival-Tehran's usual festive bustle is absent. Markets, typically crowded with shoppers buying sweets and nuts, stand quieter this year, residents report.

Peyman, a man in his thirties, described the eerie calm: "The metro is so empty you could play football in the aisles. Streets are deserted. Yet we keep living-what choice do we have?"

Another resident in his thirties said his sleep schedule now revolves around bombings. "I go to bed at 6 or 7 a.m. and wake at 2 p.m. Grocery runs are the only reason I leave the house."

Exodus and guilt

Of Tehran's 14 million residents, some have fled to safer areas since U.S. and Israeli strikes began on February 28. Mina, a woman in her twenties, relocated to Rasht near the Caspian Sea, where attacks have been less frequent.

"My family begged me to go, but my flatmate refused to leave Tehran," she recalled. "The night the oil depots were hit, our apartment shook violently. I blamed myself for not insisting we leave sooner."

Now in Rasht, she stays in touch with her friend daily, fantasizing about post-war plans. "We joke about dyeing our hair lighter when this ends."

Starlink: A risky lifeline

With Iran's government-imposed internet blackout entering its 12th day, connectivity remains at just 1% of normal levels, according to NetBlocks. Tech-savvy residents have turned to Starlink, Elon Musk's satellite internet service, to bypass restrictions.

Mehran, a Tehran resident in his twenties, shares his Starlink connection with at least 25 people. "I hid the device where authorities can't find or jam it," he said. While he offers access for free, others sell data on Telegram for $6 per gigabyte-a steep price in a country where average monthly salaries range between $200 and $300.

Shima, another user, warned of scams: "You must buy from someone trustworthy, or they might cut you off after taking your money." She described her own expensive Starlink VPN as slow but essential. "At least I can tell my family abroad I'm still alive."

Government crackdown

Using Starlink in Iran carries a penalty of up to two years in prison. Authorities have reportedly searched for dishes to disrupt connections, but users continue to find creative hiding spots.

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