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Exhibition highlights Queen Elizabeth II's fashion legacy
A new exhibition at Buckingham Palace's King's Gallery explores how Queen Elizabeth II's wardrobe reflected Britain's evolution over her 70-year reign. Featuring 200 items-including clothing, jewellery, and accessories-the display marks the centenary of her birth, revealing how her style balanced practicality, diplomacy, and timeless elegance.
Harris Tweed and tartan: A symbol of stability
One of the Queen's most enduring off-duty ensembles, a Harris Tweed jacket paired with a Balmoral Tartan skirt, debuted in the 1950s. Designed by Norman Hartnell, the outfit became a staple for its durability and understated authority. Royal fashion commentator Marian Kwei notes the fabrics were chosen to "promote British fashion, excellence, and production."
The ensemble's feminine cut and muted tones conveyed "stability, dependability, and soft power," Kwei adds, reinforcing the Queen's image as a steadying presence without overt grandeur. Its influence persists today, inspiring luxury brands like Miu Miu's 2024 Balmoral collection.
The Coronation dress: A Commonwealth tapestry
Hartnell's 1953 Coronation dress, crafted from Kent silk, embodied British craftsmanship with gold bugle beads, diamantés, and pearls. Yet its true significance lay in its symbolism. The gown featured floral emblems of the UK's four nations-Tudor rose (England), thistle (Scotland), leek (Wales), and shamrock (Ireland)-alongside Commonwealth motifs like Canada's maple leaf and India's lotus flower.
"The gown was a nod to Britain and the Commonwealth,"
Marian Kwei, royal fashion commentator
Kwei describes the dress as "an indication of the kind of Queen we had and how she reigned."
Diplomacy in fabric: The Eisenhower state banquet gown
For a 1957 state banquet honoring U.S. President Dwight Eisenhower, the Queen wore a sleeveless green gown by Hartnell. While its design lacked overt symbolism, curator Caroline de Guitaut suggests its "apple crisp green" hue may have subtly referenced American culture-from New York's "Big Apple" nickname to the nation's apple-pie traditions.
Kwei interprets the dress as a dual message: "'I'm Britain's sovereign, but I'm also nodding to you.'" The choice underscored the Queen's role in strengthening transatlantic ties during the Cold War.
Princess Margaret's wedding: A moment frozen in time
The Queen's kingfisher-blue gown for her sister's 1960 wedding-complete with guipure lace and a matching bolero-captured a pivotal era. De Guitaut calls it "incredibly timeless," yet notes it marked the last full-length non-bridal dress worn by a royal at a wedding. The blue silk roses on her hat subtly honored Princess Margaret's full name, Margaret Rose.
The dress reflected a Britain on the cusp of change, soon to embrace the miniskirts of the "Swinging Sixties." As Kwei observes, "The Queen lived through a period where British fashion truly emerged."
Futurism and visibility: The 1960s plastic raincoat
Among the exhibition's standout pieces is a 1960s clear plastic raincoat by Hardy Amies, a designer later tapped for A Space Odyssey. Like her signature transparent umbrellas, the coat ensured the Queen's vibrant dresses remained visible in all weather-a practical choice that also aligned with the era's futuristic trends.
De Guitaut emphasizes the importance of color: "Even if you're 10 deep in a crowd, you can see the Queen in a bright yellow coat." The Queen's wardrobe, she adds, was "always appropriate for the occasion."
A legacy of quiet influence
From Dior's New Look in the 1940s to Balenciaga's voluminous silhouettes in the 1950s, the Queen's style evolved with the times while maintaining its signature restraint. By the 1970s, she embraced looser evening gowns and bold patterns, yet her elegance remained distinctly British.
As de Guitaut concludes, "For someone on the world stage for 70 years, it's impressive she always made the right choice."
Exhibition details
Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style runs from 10 April 2026 at the King's Gallery, Buckingham Palace.
