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Paris debuts Modest Fashion Week with global designers
Paris marked a milestone this week by hosting its first-ever Modest Fashion Week, showcasing nearly 30 designers whose collections feature loose, floor-length garments and headscarves. The event drew attention for its timing and location, given France's contentious history with religious attire in public spaces.
Why Paris?
France's strict secular laws, known as laïcité, have long restricted religious clothing in state institutions, including bans on hijabs in schools and abayas (full-length robes) in classrooms. Despite this, the country is home to an estimated 5-7.5 million Muslims, making it a significant market for modest fashion. Özlem Şahin, organizer of Modest Fashion Week, called Paris "one of Europe's leading modest fashion capitals."
For Nigerian designer Rukaiya Kamba of Flaunt Archive, presenting in Paris was a deliberate choice. "It comes from a very intentional place," she said, reflecting on the event's symbolic weight in a nation where Muslim women's clothing often sparks political debate.
Designs blend tradition with modern trends
At Hôtel Le Marois, a historic mansion near the Champs-Élysées, runways featured nature-inspired palettes. Turkish designer Hicran Önal of Miha showcased flowing floral tulle dresses in teals and blush pinks, while Indonesian designer Nada Puspita opted for sleek, minimalist lines. Australian brand Asiyam, led by Aisa Hassan, drew from warmer tones-deep greens and autumnal reds-with a bucket hat adding a nod to her heritage.
French brands like Soutoura and Nour Turbans took a bolder approach, merging modest fashion with Gen Z streetwear. Their collections included boxy, jewel-toned nylon garments and beret-styled headscarves, echoing trends popularized by sportswear giants like Nike and Adidas.
Market growth and shifting perceptions
The modest fashion industry has expanded rapidly, with global spending projected to surpass $400 billion by 2027, according to DinarStandard. Once targeted primarily at Muslim women, the market now attracts secular shoppers and other religious communities.
Fatou Doucouré, founder of French brand Soutoura, said the event left her feeling proud. "I've struggled with my hijab in France, but today, I don't feel it's holding me back," she said. Her sentiment was echoed by attendees, including a young French woman of Malian descent who described the show as a joyful moment after facing discrimination for wearing a headscarf.
Controversy and cultural tensions
France's secular policies have long fueled debate. The hijab was banned in state schools over 20 years ago, and abayas were recently prohibited in classrooms. Public-sector workers, including teachers and civil servants, are barred from wearing religious symbols at work. Turkish swimwear brand Mayovera's burkini collection-banned in most public pools but permitted on beaches-highlighted these ongoing tensions.
Yet some attendees sensed a shift. "It feels like something has changed," said one young woman. "My hijab isn't the center of political discussion anymore. People are starting to see beyond it."
Looking ahead
Modest Fashion Week's debut in Paris signals growing recognition of the industry's economic and cultural influence. While challenges remain, the event offered a platform for designers to redefine modest fashion as both a personal choice and a global trend.
