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Guangzhou's 'Shein village' powers global fast fashion giant
The relentless hum of sewing machines fills Panyu, a district in Guangzhou, southern China, where thousands of factories operate around the clock to produce clothing for Shein, the world's largest fast fashion retailer. Workers here labor up to 75 hours weekly, often with just one day off per month, in conditions that violate Chinese labor laws, a BBC investigation reveals.
Exploitative working conditions uncovered
During a multi-day visit, BBC journalists observed workers in 10 factories, interviewed four factory owners, and spoke with over 20 employees. Most reported working 10 to 12-hour shifts daily, with some extending past midnight. A 49-year-old migrant worker from Jiangxi province stated, "If there are 31 days in a month, I will work 31 days."
Wages are piece-rate, with workers earning less than $1 per simple item like a t-shirt. Monthly incomes range from 4,000 to 10,000 yuan ($550-$1,380), though basic pay without overtime falls below the 6,512 yuan ($900) deemed necessary for a "living wage" by the Asia Floor Wage Alliance. Swiss advocacy group Public Eye called the conditions "an extreme form of exploitation."
"These hours are not unusual, but it's clear that it's illegal and violates basic human rights."
David Hachfield, Public Eye
Shein's meteoric growth and controversies
Once a little-known Chinese company, Shein is now valued at £54 billion ($66 billion) and plans to list on the London Stock Exchange. Its success stems from ultra-low prices-dresses for £10, sweaters for £6-and a vast inventory of hundreds of thousands of items. Revenue has surpassed competitors like H&M and Zara, driven by Panyu's 5,000 factories, most of which supply Shein.
However, the company has faced persistent allegations of labor abuses. In 2024, Shein admitted to finding child labor in its supply chain. While headquartered in Singapore, the majority of its production remains in China, drawing scrutiny from U.S. lawmakers. Senator Marco Rubio accused Shein of relying on "slave labor, sweatshops, and trade tricks," though rights groups describe the conditions as exploitative rather than forced.
Shein responded to the BBC in a statement, saying it is "committed to ensuring the fair and dignified treatment of all workers" and is investing millions in compliance. The company also noted it requires suppliers to adhere to its code of conduct and works with auditors to enforce standards.
Algorithmic demand and supply chain pressures
Shein's business model relies on real-time data to dictate production. If shoppers engage with a particular item, factories receive rush orders, often requiring temporary hires to meet demand. Workers in Panyu's alleys-functioning as informal labor markets-calculate earnings per piece before accepting contracts, with complex garments offering higher pay.
A factory owner explained the trade-offs: "Shein orders are large, but profits are low and fixed." To compensate, suppliers cut costs elsewhere, often reducing wages. Yet, some owners praised Shein for reliable payments, calling it a "pillar of the fashion industry."
Xinjiang cotton and transparency challenges
Shein faces additional scrutiny over allegations that it sources cotton from China's Xinjiang region, where Uyghur forced labor has been reported. Beijing denies these claims. Professor Sheng Lu of the University of Delaware emphasized the need for transparency: "Unless Shein fully releases its factory list and supply chain details, it will struggle to gain investor confidence."
China's complete supply chain-from fabric to zippers-gives Shein a competitive edge, allowing rapid production that rivals in Vietnam and Bangladesh cannot match. However, the pressure to deliver low-cost items at scale perpetuates grueling conditions for workers.
Workers' mixed perspectives
Despite the hardships, some employees expressed pride in contributing to Shein's global success. A 33-year-old supervisor from Guangdong said, "This is the contribution we Chinese people can make to the world." Others, like the migrant worker from Jiangxi, endure the long hours to support their families. "We get on well with each other," she added. "We are like a family."
As midnight approaches, lights remain on in many factories. Workers continue sewing, driven by the promise of higher earnings-while millions worldwide hunt for their next bargain.
