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Goa's shifting tourism landscape
On a scorching afternoon at Palolem Beach in southern Goa, the shoreline buzzes with activity-but the crowd is almost entirely Indian. The absence of European and Russian visitors, once a staple of the state's tourism economy, marks a stark shift in Goa's appeal as a global destination.
Numbers tell the story
Official figures from Goa's tourism department reveal a dramatic reversal. In 2017, nearly 900,000 international tourists visited the state. By 2025, that number had halved to around 500,000. Meanwhile, domestic tourism surged from 6.8 million in 2016 to over 10 million last year, filling the void left by foreign travelers.
Why are foreigners staying away?
Tourists and industry insiders cite a mix of economic and logistical hurdles. Sophie, a Russian ballet dancer on her fifth trip to Goa, points to rising costs. "After Covid and the Ukraine war, flights became expensive due to Middle East tensions. Many friends now choose Turkey or Egypt-they're closer and cheaper," she said.
Rico, a British visitor with two decades of Goa trips under his belt, echoes the sentiment. "In the UK, people have less disposable income for overseas travel. For the past few years, more are opting for staycations," he noted.
Visa woes and competition
Ernest Dias, a tourism committee member and travel charter operator, highlights cumbersome visa processes and fee hikes as major deterrents. "Today's travelers want spontaneity. Delays and higher costs push them toward destinations like Vietnam and Sri Lanka, where on-arrival visas and cheaper hotels are the norm," he told the BBC.
A recent Russian tour group canceled their Goa plans in favor of Vietnam, where demand has "skyrocketed," Dias added. Affordability is another factor: beachfront resorts in Goa now cater more to domestic tourists and the MICE (meetings, incentives, conferences, exhibitions) sector, pricing out budget-conscious foreigners.
Infrastructure and perception challenges
Nicola, a British hairdresser vacationing in Goa, faced inconvenience after Air India axed its direct London-Gatwick service, forcing an unplanned layover in Mumbai. "My brother went to Sri Lanka instead-he found it cleaner and more affordable," she said.
Dias acknowledges Goa's cleanliness issues, despite government efforts. "Beaches are better maintained, but roads leading to them are often littered. Foreign tourists, especially, notice this," he admitted. High taxi fares, driven by local unions resisting app-based services, further dampen the experience.
Economic ripple effects
Shervyn Lobo, who runs a 100-room hotel near Baga Beach, reports a 10% drop in foreign footfall. While domestic bookings have offset some losses, international guests typically stay longer and spend more on excursions, dining, and local services-benefits the broader tourism ecosystem now misses.
Goa's comeback strategy
Tourism Minister Rohan Khaunte described the state's approach as a balance of "pessimism and optimism." Dias revealed plans to woo visitors through international roadshows, targeting Poland and Scandinavia next, while also eyeing markets in Asia and Africa.
Yet, with cheaper, cleaner alternatives like Vietnam and Sri Lanka aggressively courting tourists, Goa faces an uphill battle. The state's famed "Susegad" charm-its laid-back lifestyle, Portuguese-influenced architecture, and whitewashed churches-may no longer be enough to draw back the crowds it once took for granted.
