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Gikomba Market thrives despite challenges
Kenya's largest open-air market, Gikomba, remains bustling even amid heavy rains that left sections waterlogged. Shoppers, some in rubber boots, navigated crowded alleys in search of second-hand garments, known locally as mitumba, imported from the U.S., Europe, and China.
Local designers struggle to compete
East Africa's reliance on mitumba has long posed challenges for domestic fashion brands. Zia Bett, founder of Kenyan womenswear label Zia Africa, told the BBC, "We can't compete on price." A Tanzanian designer, Elizabeth Paul of Kuya Creations, echoed the sentiment, noting customers often opt for cheaper second-hand options.
"For 50,000 Tanzanian shillings (£14.50; $19.20), I can get 10 second-hand dresses, so let me buy those."
Elizabeth Paul, Kuya Creations
Regional tensions over mitumba imports
A decade ago, the East African Community (EAC) considered banning second-hand clothing but abandoned the plan after U.S. pressure. The debate resurfaced recently when Uganda imposed a 30% environmental levy on mitumba imports, citing industry protection and waste concerns. Kenya, meanwhile, briefly proposed tax reforms but withdrew them after public backlash over potential price hikes.
Kenya currently applies a 30% customs duty on used clothing-5% higher than the tariff on new imports. Trade data shows Kenya imported nearly 180,000 tonnes of mitumba in 2022, a 76% increase from 2013.
Economic and environmental trade-offs
Proponents argue the mitumba trade supports millions of jobs, from importers to tailors. The Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) estimates 4.9 million East Africans rely on the industry. However, critics like King's College London academic Dr. Andrew Brooks contend it offers limited economic benefits compared to local manufacturing.
"Retail is the most limited form of job creation. If you're just importing and selling, you're doing very little for your economy."
Dr. Andrew Brooks, King's College London
Environmental concerns also loom large. A 2023 report by the Changing Markets Foundation found over a third of mitumba shipped to Kenya is unwearable and ends up in landfills. Yet MCAK chairperson Teresia Wairimu Njenga counters that local production would generate even more waste.
Rwanda's experiment and regional lessons
Rwanda's 2016 tax hike on mitumba-from $0.20 to $2.50 per kg-reduced imports but shifted demand to cheap new garments from China and Turkey. The country's trade ministry later acknowledged domestic production gaps, delaying a full ban. Ugandan designer Joel Okalany warns East Africa isn't ready to replace mitumba, comparing the region's tailoring industry to "using a horse instead of a tractor."
Balancing affordability and industry growth
While mitumba remains popular for its affordability and quality, Kenyan designer Zia Bett advocates for building brands that consumers choose, not just afford. MCAK's Njenga proposes coexistence: "Let's not kill mitumba-give consumers the power of choice."
As global waste treaties consider classifying used clothing as waste, East Africa's debate highlights the complex balance between economic needs, environmental sustainability, and industry development.
