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An unassuming tree with a royal legacy
In the coastal town of Apam, Ghana, a centuries-old tree named Santseo stands largely unnoticed by most. Yet for one family, it marks the spot where their ancestors settled after a long journey, guided by an ancient tradition of planting saplings to find their destined home.
The journey from Akwamufie
According to oral history, the story begins in the 13th century when a group of travelers left Akwamufie, the historic capital of the Akwamu Kingdom. Leading them was Nana Asumbia, a royal and spiritual figure whose authority blended governance with ritual.
Local historian Emmanuel Arkoful, a distant relative, describes her dual role: "She was a royal, but at the same time, a chief priest."
The exact reason for their departure remains unclear-some accounts suggest conflict, while others point to a nomadic lifestyle. What endured, however, was their method of choosing a new home.
A tree as a sign
The travelers carried seedlings of Piliostigma thonningii, a hardy African tree known for its resilience. At each stop, they planted one and waited. If the sapling thrived, they stayed; if it died, they moved on.
"They believed the tree's survival was a sign," Arkoful explains. "A place where it lived was meant for them."
Their first major stop was near present-day Accra, where descendants of Akwamu origin still reside. But the tree there did not survive, so they continued westward along the coast.
The final settlement in Apam
The group's last stop came after a hunter tracked a wounded elephant deep into the forest. At the site where the animal died, Nana Asumbia planted another sapling. This time, it took root in the red coastal soil. The travelers settled, and the tree-now known as Santseo-still stands today.
A plaque near the tree reads: "To the glory of God In commemoration of Nana Asumbia of Akwamufie... and grandmother of Nana Kweedwua Santsewadze Twidan Royal Family."
A living link to pre-colonial history
Santseo predates two nearby landmarks: Fort Patience, built by the Dutch in 1697 for trade (including enslaved people), and the Apam Methodist Church, a symbol of Christianity's spread. "Our people settled here even before the Dutch built the fort," Arkoful says.
Yet the tree's spiritual significance faded over time as Christianity took hold. "People didn't want others to think they were idol worshippers," Arkoful notes. Today, it stands not as a shrine but as a quiet reminder of a journey never written down.
Reconnecting with roots
Decades ago, family members traveled back to Akwamufie, where oral traditions had long spoken of those who left. The return was emotional-one member was installed as a Queen Mother, Nana Asumbia II, bridging centuries of separation.
In Apam, life revolves around the Atlantic. Fishermen pass Santseo daily, and on Tuesdays, the town observes a spiritual tradition: no fishing, no boats, just the sound of the sea and the tree that has endured it all.
A legacy rooted in time
Santseo's branches, shaped by wind and salt, offer more than shade. They tell a story of movement, survival, and belief-a story that predates written records but lives on in the red earth of Apam.